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TOPIC: 1966 122S Idle Speed

1966 122S Idle Speed 2 months 2 weeks ago #1395

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mrains wrote:
Thanks for the followup review.

Do you have specific PCV Valve numbers that NAPA or others may carry. I wouldn't mind changing mine out with another; cheap try. The one I have I bought off EBAY. It's old and original and I think it's correct, but might be worth a try.

The correct PCV valve for the B18 is Volvo Part Number 418982.

This item is available from TASCA and Swedish Treasures.

For TASCA paste the above part number in the "Search Everything" window...

www.tascaparts.com/


Here is a pic of the valve...

www.swedishtreasures.com/418982.jpg

...and if we could read the stamped numbers one could probably find the valve locally.

To see the Swedish Treasures offer just search for "418982" on this Page...

www.swedishtreasures.com/1202.html

In my early daze these were available from JCW for under $2 (1966 Chevy II).

Back to Valve adjustment...

Since the cam in your B18 is not OEM the best method to adjust valves is the "Rule of Nines" using a modified feeler gauge (0.017") (see previous posts).

This will give the best valve lash/action and subsequently the best opportunity for that perfect 800rpm idle.

When you are next bending over the SUs and have the warm (not hot) idle down to about 800rpm but still a bit rough turn the mixture nut on each carb three flats toward rich and blip the carbs. Let the new setting take hold then note the idle quality. If even rougher turn the mixture nuts six flats toward lean and repeat the blip again allowing the idle to settle down and adjust for the different mixture.

Eventually you will accept the fact that the B18 is an unbalanced engine by design and shakes at certain rpm ranges.

More?

Look closely at the plug and coil wires routing. Position each wire so that it is at/near perpendicular to any nearby crossing wires. Avoid sharp bends if possible. This aids in preventing the spark energy from inducting itself into another conductor before it reaches the sparkle plug.

Refresh my memory (is that possible?) - your Amazon has the Bosch Blue Coil, Pertronix electronic ignition and Optima Yellow-top battery - right?

Edit - you didn't get that bad cold from your wife but from touching the keyboard while reading my drivel. Mine lasted three weeks with symptoms never before experienced in 72 years.
Last Edit: 2 months 2 weeks ago by gdill3. Reason: dumb
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1966 122S Idle Speed 2 months 2 weeks ago #1396

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Thanks for the PCV info; we'll procure a second one.

Thanks, I'll try your recommendations on valve adjustment and SU tuning.

My ignition is Bosch coil (blue), Bosch points (gapped correctly but one question on that in a minute) and Autozone battery.

On the points, I had Glenn Ring install new set when distributor was rebuilt. Something a little odd there though. the manual calls for a gap of .016-.018 for a dwell of around 60. I had to go all the way down to .013 to get that same dwell.

Also, I have to admit I ran the coil backwards initially but is wired proplery now. I don't think that will hurt it. Any thoughts on either of these and my Autozone battery??
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1966 122S Idle Speed 2 months 2 weeks ago #1397

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mrains wrote:
Thanks for the PCV info; we'll procure a second one.

Thanks, I'll try your recommendations on valve adjustment and SU tuning.

My ignition is Bosch coil (blue), Bosch points (gapped correctly but one question on that in a minute) and Autozone battery.

On the points, I had Glenn Ring install new set when distributor was rebuilt. Something a little odd there though. the manual calls for a gap of .016-.018 for a dwell of around 60. I had to go all the way down to .013 to get that same dwell.

Also, I have to admit I ran the coil backwards initially but is wired proplery now. I don't think that will hurt it. Any thoughts on either of these and my Autozone battery??

Bosch Blue coil - be sure no ballast is in the circuit.

Dwell vs. gap - this could be caused by condenser incompatibility and/or the wrong style breaker plate for the rebuilt distributor. Maybe the dwell meter? Also, be sure the gap does not change when tightening the set screw. For now set the gap at 0.017" and the sparkle plugs at 0.032" and (temporarily) the timing to 10 degrees BTDC at 800rpm.

This will give maximum opportunity for perfect idle.

The final engine timing should be 30-33 degrees BTDC at 3,200 RPM.

Consider the installation of an electronic ignition to eliminate the points and condenser. This does not provide increased performance but does simplify adjustments and tuning.

The existing coil and battery should be ok.

What OTC meds do find effective for minimizing head cold symptoms?
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1966 122S Idle Speed 2 months 1 week ago #1398

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On my points, I'm going to contact Glenn Ring who rebuilt all of this. It still doesn't seem right that the gap is so small to achieve 60 degrees dwell. I sent him my original distributor so if something was wrong, it might have carried through; not sure.

I just ran it a while ago and after warming up, I had 30 BTDC at 3000 rpm. ~18 BTD at 900 rpm idle. Idle reasonably smooth and again, on jack stands so I think it might settle down even more on the wheels.

OTC meds my wife used were mucinex (drink a lot of water). Pharmacist recommends pseudofed but not late in day. I got over this in 5-6 days; my wife longer. I think some people are struggling with it several weeks in. Hope you are better.
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1966 122S Idle Speed 2 months 1 week ago #1399

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If possible, borrow a different dwell meter and compare the readings.

Looking at the negative wire from the coil to the distributor - this must match OEM in both gauge, length and ohms.
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1966 122S Idle Speed 1 month 15 hours ago #1456

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Back again with a few questions.

I have the car running the streets now. Reasonably satisfied with feel but never having driven one of these suckers; still a little unsure. To catch up:

1) Got my brake pedal firm. Your input on tightening up the rear drums made the difference. There was no air in the system and after adjusting the back shoes, the pedal tightened up. I do have a slight difference in closeness. The right rear shoe is closer to the drum than the left side. So when I brake hard, the right locks up. Also, it ran a little hot doing the loop around my neighborhood a number of times. I've been moving the proportional valve down each loop but still haven't reached no lockup.

2) On engine, a couple of improvements. I did a valve adjustment and found several valves out. Put them all at .20 go, .22 no go. I have a 'C' cam; am assuming this is the correct gap.

I had set the timing at 22 BTDC at 1500 by mistake (thinking it was the old low compression) but that hasn't been a problem driving; at least not with respect to pinging. I do have a little hesitation on acceleration; particularly up slight grade, so something not quite right.

I went back and checked compression with another tester. Again 150 psi across all cylinders. I think something is not quite right since the intent of engine work was to increase the CR somewhat. My mechanic was nervous about exceeding CR of 9.5, and only took off .030 between head mill and decking block. I don't know the type head gasket used though. Also we went .020 over on cylinders; which should have increased CR somewhat. Seems like I ought to have higher pressures in the cylinder with all this. Also, no pinging at 22 BTDC timing also sort of indicates low CR to me. 87 Octane gas used.

Does any of this make sense to you?

The question I have is could my inability to get a smoother idle at 6-800 be due to standard 18D compression (e.g., ~ 8.5 to 8.7 ish) with a 'C' cam? Or can a 'C' cam produce good idle in a low compression 18D?

I've attached a few pictures for you; tried to upload on site but I think I screwed up the first round and can't seem to obtain a second category.

s1373.photobucket.com/user/mikerns/library/?sort=3&page=0
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