I added a fuel regulator to the system as well as a gauge. Hitting around 3psi now. Some folks recommend 4.
I have adjusted my ignition timing. I was running 10 past TDC, and now have it a 16 pre TDC It now runs better at idle, keeps cool, and runs a hell of a lot better in general. I have left all the current jets in there, and have made a few adjustments. Idle jets are 2 turns out. So for so good.
Now I am moving onto adjusting the valves. The Haynes manual has a number of settings for the various versions of the B20. Given that I am running these Webers on a 2.2l engine. I am unsure as to which valve settings to use.
The Haynes manual method for setting valves -- setting #1 when #8 is fully depressed, #2 with #7 down, etc. -- has worked pretty well for us until recently. Here's a method I find I like better, though, that works with any cam profile -- courtesy of David Hueppchen, who got it from Waddell Wilson years ago:
1.Bring the motor up to full operating temperature (this means, of course, that you want to adjust the valves to the "warm" spec found in your manual or supplied by an aftermarket cam's manufacturer).
2.Remove the spark plugs so the motor's easier to turn (I turn it with an adjustable wrench on the crankshaft pulley. Also -- needless to say, I hope -- make absolutely sure you know which plug wire goes back on where).
3.Turn the motor in the direction it normally runs -- clockwise, looking at it from the front of the car -- until an exhaust valve just starts to open. Look at the manifolds to see which are exhaust and which are intake valves. OK, I'll make it easy: counting from front to back, valves 1, 4, 5 and 8 are exhaust valves.
4.At this point, adjust the intake valve on that cylinder. In other words, when the rocker arm on exhaust valve #4 just starts to tip downwards, adjust intake valve #3.
5.Keep turning the motor through two complete rotations and adjust all the intake valves in a similar way.
6.Go around two more times, adjusting each exhaust valve just as the intake on the same cylinder begins to close. In other words, when the rocker arm on intake valve #3 just starts to come back up from being fully depressed, adjust exhaust valve #4.
Once the valve adjustment is correct -- and only then -- you're ready to set ignition timing and tune carburetors.
I like David's method a lot better than the way I've been doing it all these years -- and I'm sure you will, too.
Yes, Mr. Singher, again.
This method of valve adjustment requires numerous revolutions of the crank so consider rigging up a crank pulley socket/ratchet arrangement to ease the chore. Along with removing all the spark plugs some folks even slacken off on all drive belts.
Note that Phil states the "new" method works for any cam profile.
As you begin this method of valve adjustment (if you do) consider checking the existing clearance before making any changes. If most valves are more than 0.005" off from the new adjustment you should check the timing again. Using just the 0.020" feeler gauge set all valves (warm) to the same degree of "resistance". You should feel the feeler gauge being slightly "held in place" as you withdraw it from the lifter.
Last Edit: 1 year 10 months ago by gdill3. Reason: dumb